Issue with my stang

StangfriikStangfriik
edited November 2005 in Feature Mustangs
When starting up my stang, it stalls out the first try but then starts up the second only to chug a little before warming up. My wife said it completely stalled out on her the other day while driving. I just replaced the battery as it died the other day. I also cleaned the air filter and added some fuel system cleaner as it's been a while since I have done so. I'm thinking alternator as we have had problems with the alternator in the past but not sure. Would faulty spark plugs or wires do this? I looked at the plugs some months ago though and they looked fine.

Also, what are the recommended tune up options for a mustang that has over 100K miles on it?

Comments

  • TRIWFOXTRIWFOX
    You might check the fuel pump... I have 150k miles on mine and the fuel pump is on it's last legs.

    As long as I keep at least a half tank of gas in her she wil run great, but as soon as it starts to get low, she will start cutting out and idling rough.

    I'm dreading replacing it and I'm hoping that it will last until I pull the rear end to replace the bearings and install 4:10's. I figure it will be a lot easier to drop the tank with the rear end out of the way... :D

    Just a suggestion. [B-)]

    Sue
  • GiddyUpGiddyUp
    If it's starting with no problem before stalling, the issue probably isn't anything in the electrical system, e.g alternator, battery, plugs, etc. The air cleaner could have been a problem but since you replaced that already, the iproblem is most likely in the fuel system...most likely either the pump or dirty injectors. One shot of cleaner through the injectors might not have been enough to clean them. It could also be bad gas if the car doesn't get driven much and the gas is old. But I'd guess the pump based on my own experiences.
  • StangfriikStangfriik
    Yea I'm fearing it's the fuel pump but since it's been a while since I had done a tune up, I bought: new spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, gonna change oil and filter, new thermostat, plus spray some carb cleaner into the air intake. I figured I'd start with the little things that needed to be done anyways before going on to the dreaded fuel pump replacement.

    The gas should be good as I added the fuel cleaner when I had like 1/8th of a tank of gas then put half a tank in the next day.

    I've never replaced a fuel pump but have been told how much a pain it is. I'll probably get my dad to help me out if it is needed. :(
  • RoughneckRoughneck
    Try cleaning the Mass Air Flow Sensor. It is a very easy job. The sensor may have some dirt that is preventing the sensor from getting an accurate read on the air temperature going into the engine. It is part of the the big black air intake tube about 10" from the intake. There are two hose clamps that secure the rubber hoses to the body of the sensor. Use some electric parts cleaner (comes in a spray can) and spray the little wire that sticks down. I had the same problem in cool weather and the sensor had some grime on it.


    As far as what to do with an engine that has 100k? It is barely broken in.......Fuel filter, plugs / wires. Clean the distributor cap. Keep the oil changed
  • jtfeenjtfeen
    Use only Motorcraft parts on your tune up...but I'm purest and prefer OEM parts. Since you already have the plugs out for a tune up- I would also suggest checking your compression while your at it. I believe the service manual states acceptable compression ratings are actually based on % of difference between the cylinders and not a base reading. But, a restoration professional told me not to worry much so long as every cylinder was about 125 PSI or better. I did mine, that has 122K and all the cylinders were 142 PSI plus, so mileage doesn't matter much....it's more how well the engine has been maintained through its life. Alternatively, 80 PSI is a dead hole and will require either a head job or a rebuild. Any reading that low should be followed by a wet test to see if you have ring leakage or valve leakage, the compression tester should have the directions to conduct the tests..or a service manual of course.

    I would check your fuel pressure-its pretty easy with the valve right on the front of the fuel rail, if memory serves, running pressure is 35 PSI. If you are below that, drop the tank and put in a new fuel pump...as we all know if the pump fails on the street, you'll need a tow truck, and that BLOWS. Also, check for excessive bleed off of the fuel pressure after shutting the engine down. The fuel pressure should remain constant, if it bleeds off quickly, that usually indicates the check valve inside the pump is bad and indicates replacement of the pump. If it does bleed off quickly, thats probably why you are having the cold start problem because there is not enough fuel pressure in the line. The second time you turn the key on, and fire up the pump, is building the pressure high enough to start the car.

    I found that having a good transmission jack made all the difference in getting the tank out easily. Also, get the car as high as safely possible on jack stands...you really need the extra room to maneuver the tank, especially if it has several gallons of gas in it-drain out as much fuel as you can before starting the job, it will make it much easier. Really wasn't difficult at all-I did it by myself, but an extra set of hands would have been useful.

    Good luck, Tom
  • bosscobrabosscobra
    Does it run smooth when it has warmed? Is it a manual or automatic? Does it have any engine mods? How long has it done this, when and what was the last maintenance done to the motor?
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