Just to cut to the chase, throttle related may mean the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is acquiring or has a bad spot in the rheostat, or possibly an Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve may not be operating correctly.
As you accelerate the TPS passes the "bad" spot, or the EGR valve gets a rush of vacuum and opens.
BOTH should at least turn the check engine light on and maybe back off again.
O2 sensors are pluged up/ Check engine light will come on if sitting in traffic - then turn off (No other time) I dont have a code scanner. Need to purchase one
I got my OBD I code scanner at Walmart back in the late 80s to early 90s. I bought my later model (1995/1996 and later) OBD II code scanner at Walmart on clearance about 3 or so years ago.
If you're not familiar with the one you need, it MUST be able to plug into EARLY Ford vehicles and read OBD I (the Roman Numeral 1) codes. I have heard that some newer code scanners read both.
Did someone pull the codes for you and give you that diagnosis on your O2 sensors? I have heard O2 sensor problems can cause your vehicle to use more fuel then it should.
Also remember, the TPS or other component could have a problem and NOT turn on the check engine light. I troubleshot a super-high idle at stops in my mom's 1989 5.0 Club Wagon van and had NO codes for weeks. I replaced common things since there were no codes figuring it wasn't ECU/EEC system-related, like fuel filter, cleaned the IAC (which never gives failure codes in these old cars when the IAC stalls vehicles at stops), and tried several other things trying to solve the problem. One Saturday I stood there starting the van, shutting it off, starting it, shutting it off and after doing this time and time again the check engine light flashed on and off. I plugged the code scanner in and had a PRIMARY failure code pointing to the TPS. I replaced the TPS and the high idle at stops problem went away.
What apparently happened to her van's TPS is some time before this a small throttle plate cooling hose sprung a leak and was spraying coolant around the area. I had replaced it. I am guessing that the coolant settling on the TPS caused it to fail prematurely. The TPS on her van is on the underside of the throttle plate too, which I am sure didn't help.
When you start using a code scanner on your own to diagnose vehicle problems these Ford vehicles give two groups of codes. The first group are primary failure codes and the second group are secondary failure codes. These two groups of codes are seperated by a single beep of the code scanner. Rule-of-thumb is replace the very first thing the ECU/EEC sends a code for as that first thing can make every other component that shows it is bad behind it look bad when they aren't. Clear the remaining codes, start and drive the car and see if any new codes get logged by the ECU/EEC.
No codes have been pulled yet. It would be great to have one to read (BOTH) Early & Late Models, Reason be I have a 96 f150, 97Expedition, 92, 93 Mustang. Guess I need to do some HOMEWORK on these code scanners.
No codes have been pulled yet. It would be great to have one to read (BOTH) Early & Late Models, Reason be I have a 96 f150, 97Expedition, 92, 93 Mustang. Guess I need to do some HOMEWORK on these code scanners.
how about just go to auto parts store and ask them to scan for you?
(ALL) the local autoparts stores in my area, say they can only pull codes on 1996 and newer vehicles. Dealership says no problem (BRINGER ON IN) but of course $ 110.00 +Tax
Advance Auto Parts and AutoZone used to sell them here. I don't look anymore because I buy MOST of my parts for my Limited Editions and other Fords directly from Ford now.
I am never in an auto parts store long enough to stand and look at the racks behind the counter where they used to be. I only stop and buy my Havoline oil at the parts stores and that is pretty much it.
Give your local Walmart a call and ask the auto parts clerk if they carry either of them (if they even know what they are). The guy I talked to knew exactly what the OBD II scanner was and told me it was on clearance from around $99.00 to about $69.00 back when I got that one.
UPDATE!! After the purchase of an OBD1 scanner, I replaced an - Idle Air Control Valve/ Sensor, EGR Position Sensor, Egr Pressure Solenoid,Fuel Pump Relay and New Fuel Pump.In the end it was the (Upper Intake Gasket Leaking)
Interesting. I wouldn't have suspected an intake gasket failure. I will keep that in mind for future troubleshooting. I wonder if that was caused by the original torque done to the intake on assembly at Ford. Did you pull codes that the intake leak may have caused on any of those components that you replaced?
After searching the internet, it is not uncommon for the Upper Intake Bolts to lossen, due to Aluminum to Cast. Everytime I would replace a Part/Sensor- a (CODE) would disappear, But the PROBLEM wouldn't. I couldn't wait to fire the car up this morning from a cold start a (LITTLE NERVOUS) but it started up fine with a smooth idle and ran great.
Comments
Do you have a check engine light that comes on and goes out when this happens or is on fora while when it happens?
As you accelerate the TPS passes the "bad" spot, or the EGR valve gets a rush of vacuum and opens.
BOTH should at least turn the check engine light on and maybe back off again.
Do you have your own Code Scanner?
If you're not familiar with the one you need, it MUST be able to plug into EARLY Ford vehicles and read OBD I (the Roman Numeral 1) codes. I have heard that some newer code scanners read both.
Did someone pull the codes for you and give you that diagnosis on your O2 sensors? I have heard O2 sensor problems can cause your vehicle to use more fuel then it should.
Also remember, the TPS or other component could have a problem and NOT turn on the check engine light. I troubleshot a super-high idle at stops in my mom's 1989 5.0 Club Wagon van and had NO codes for weeks. I replaced common things since there were no codes figuring it wasn't ECU/EEC system-related, like fuel filter, cleaned the IAC (which never gives failure codes in these old cars when the IAC stalls vehicles at stops), and tried several other things trying to solve the problem. One Saturday I stood there starting the van, shutting it off, starting it, shutting it off and after doing this time and time again the check engine light flashed on and off. I plugged the code scanner in and had a PRIMARY failure code pointing to the TPS. I replaced the TPS and the high idle at stops problem went away.
What apparently happened to her van's TPS is some time before this a small throttle plate cooling hose sprung a leak and was spraying coolant around the area. I had replaced it. I am guessing that the coolant settling on the TPS caused it to fail prematurely. The TPS on her van is on the underside of the throttle plate too, which I am sure didn't help.
When you start using a code scanner on your own to diagnose vehicle problems these Ford vehicles give two groups of codes. The first group are primary failure codes and the second group are secondary failure codes. These two groups of codes are seperated by a single beep of the code scanner. Rule-of-thumb is replace the very first thing the ECU/EEC sends a code for as that first thing can make every other component that shows it is bad behind it look bad when they aren't. Clear the remaining codes, start and drive the car and see if any new codes get logged by the ECU/EEC.
I am never in an auto parts store long enough to stand and look at the racks behind the counter where they used to be. I only stop and buy my Havoline oil at the parts stores and that is pretty much it.
Give your local Walmart a call and ask the auto parts clerk if they carry either of them (if they even know what they are). The guy I talked to knew exactly what the OBD II scanner was and told me it was on clearance from around $99.00 to about $69.00 back when I got that one.