Cleaning White Interior Panels

cwagnercwagner
edited February 2007 in Feature Mustangs
Does anyone know of a good way to clean the white interior panels that are in my Dad's 92 feature car. I believe that this car spent a lot of time with the top down, so the door panels and rear side panels look a little worn. I haven't found a cleaner that will brighten them up. The car only has like 58K miles.

Also, I am still looking for seat covers if anyone knows of any...

Comments

  • TWF_JohnTWF_John
    A couple threads here discussed cleaning:

    http://www.triplewhitefox.com/forum/index.php?p=/discussion/29

    and

    http://www.triplewhitefox.com/forum/index.php?p=/discussion/9

    It turns out that the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser is pretty effective. I got a lot of grime out of the rear panels in my car last year with them.
  • cwagnercwagner
    I am going to try it out!

    Thanks....
  • dansillsdansills
    I used a steam cleaner on mine. It cleaned them well, but even if it hadnt, seeing the color of the condensation (brown to black) was satisfying enough.
  • sparky1423sparky1423
    I found a great guy on the internet that made my new seat upholstry. My seats were destroyed, cracked, stained, etc... I went to a local shop to price new seat upholstry...my quote was $1800. To me, the price was very steep. I found a guy that stitched fox body upholstry...www.claysclassiccars.com...it is an awesome product. I actually purchased his white hampton viny for financial reasons instead of leather. I paid $400 and installed the seats myself. My seats look awesome, completely factory pattern. The vinyl is also nice, only a professional could tell the difference in leather. I actually had to dye my headrests to match the new brilliant white,,,,duplicolor vinyl white spray did the trick, perfect match. I am very pleased with the new seats, install takes some time. check it out, ask for clay.
  • TWF_JohnTWF_John
    Not to hijack this thread and start talking solely about replacement over cleaning but, as a coincidence, I was just reading in the latest issue of Mustang Monthly (March 2007) about TMI products who just started a line of upholstery products for fox-body Mustangs. I checked their site and they have nothing yet that matches 1992/1993 styles but the site does indicate that there are more products coming. Also, I have updated the FAQ to include the Clay's reference as well as TMI Products.
  • jburn57jburn57
    Thought we had another thread going about replacement but now I can't find it.

    Anyway that was the problem I ran into when I was looking for replacements. No one made them for the Features. Just plan LX conv. or GT seats.

    My black ones are at the upholstery shop as we speak, finally found some leather that matches, I am still worried about the sheen of the leather I should have them back by Friday or Tuesday of next week.
  • jburn57jburn57
    Thought we had another thread going about replacement but now I can't find it.

    Anyway that was the problem I ran into when I was looking for replacements. No one made them for the Features. Just plan LX conv. or GT seats.

    My black ones are at the upholstery shop as we speak, finally found some leather that matches, I am still worried about the sheen of the leather I should have them back by Friday or Tuesday of next week.

    Went by the upholstery shop this morning they weren't finished but they were stitched together, they look great.

    Here's something we didn't realize until they took them apart. Now everyone knows the outside of the seats are vinyl with leather inserts, but what we learned is there is a strip of vinyl between the leather center and the leather outside edge of the insert. We put these back together just as they were from the factory. She saved my factory covers so I have them as patterns now. I will post pics as soon as I get them back Tuesday.

    Here is a link to see the old seats as they were. Just 1 pic of the inside of the car, but some more pics of the car.

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/jburnsfamilyfun/
  • TWF_JohnTWF_John
    I have to say that you seats look pretty nice in the before picture. Although, if they are like mine, the problems are on the parts of the seats you can't see in that picture: the side bolsters.

    Actually, your whole car looks pretty sweet. That thing shines!
  • jburn57jburn57
    I have to say that you seats look pretty nice in the before picture. Although, if they are like mine, the problems are on the parts of the seats you can't see in that picture: the side bolsters.

    Actually, your whole car looks pretty sweet. That thing shines!

    Thanks, and you are right the outside bolster on the drivers seat had to be rebuilt. Another problem was the leather was pretty stiff and seemed like everytime I drove it the seems on the cushion cracked more. Also I used a number of different leather conditioner's and it didn't help, we suspect one or more of the previous 2 owners used Armor-all on the leather because the back seat wasn't as shinny and after about 3 treatment of conditioner it was like new.

    I chose to do them now as we would have the best chance now to have good patterns and samples to replace them. Learned a long time ago not to wait to long to replace them, it only gets harder and more expensive. Labor and materials to recover both front seats, total with the cost of the leather, $610.43 not waiting to long :D makes her job a lot easier.

    She is closed on Saturday, but I stopped by and visited them through the window of her shop, can't wait to get them home.
  • jburn57jburn57
    Picked up the seats this morning they look good. The new vinyl matches perfectly with the headrests and panels. The leather which I was concerned was a little dull, turned out to be pretty darn close after I put some leather conditioner on it which gave it a little sheen.

    I will post some pics tomorrow of them.
  • TWF_JohnTWF_John
    I'm looking forward to seeing them.

    A note on including pictures: after you write your post, click on the "I would like to attach more files" Option and then "Reply to Post". You can then attach a file and continue that process for more files. Currently, the forum restricts picture sizes to 50 kbytes. You will most likely have to reduce your pictures to make them that size or smaller. 640x480 should be well below 50k. If this restriction is too great please let me know.
  • jburn57jburn57
    Okay I got the Seats back in the car, I think they look great. One thing is for sure, they are a lot more confortable, I don't feel like I am setting on the floor pan any more. Also check out the drivers door panel I repaired the door pocket. I almost thought it was a lost cause but it came out pretty good,you can see it in the before pic also. Took me about an hour, not including the R & R of the panel. I was able to salvage the pocket.

    Here is a link in case I can't get my pics to load here.

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/jburnsfamilyfun/
  • TWF_JohnTWF_John
    They look good.

    Any tips on fixing the door pockets? Mine are sagging, also. In fact, after the ash tray door, I figure that is the number two fox-body interior problem.
  • jburn57jburn57
    They look good.

    Any tips on fixing the door pockets? Mine are sagging, also. In fact, after the ash tray door, I figure that is the number two fox-body interior problem.

    Thanks,

    Give me a day or two and I will post what I did to get the pocket back in shape. It was so bad the bottom of the pocket was getting pinched between the door and the threshold. By the looks of it, it had been that way for a while. Wish I had gotten before pics.
  • jburn57jburn57
    This worked well for me and did not require having to re-stitch the pocket.

    Elastic used: Stretch Rite, knit non-roll elastic Part No# 6102W (¾â€ wide 1 yard long) One for each door, purchased at Walmart (yes Walmart) you want a non-roll elastic so it won’t roll over.
    You will also need a heavy duty stapler and some ¼â€ reach staples.

    Okay here is what I did, I doubled the elastic and increased the width used. Not like the original but you will like the results.

    I won’t go through the door panel removal. After you remove the door panel and flip it over you will notice a bunch of tabs holding the pocket assembly onto the panel. I took a putty knife and bent all the tabs up slightly (used the putty knife to keep from putting to much pressure on one spot and cracking the backer board). Then with the needle nose pliers I finished bending the tabs straight up.

    In each upper corner you will notice that the tabs there have a large washer that locks onto the tab. Gently remove these by working them off of the tabs, be careful as you will need to reuse these. Now the pocket assembly should come right off.

    Next starting with the staples at the top of the pocket start removing them. DO NOT REMOVE the staples at the bottom of the pocket. Just the staples along the 2 ends and the few at the lower corners. This will save you from trying to reline the pocket later. Next remove the staples from the elastic.

    Next, pull on the ends of the elastic and cut off as much as you can. The elastic is sewn in at the corners, repeat this at both ends. Next, at the first opening at each end pull and cut the elastic again from the end that is sewn in. Now you will find that the snap in the middle was installed through the elastic, pull and cut it from both sides of the snap. At this point you should have all the elastic removed that is not fastened in.

    Now open the pocket like a clam shell. BE GENTAL, if it is stiff don’t force it. Next get your clothing steamer or a steam iron, warm it up as hot as it will go. Hold the steamer or iron above the back side of the pocket flap, be very careful, DO NOT TOUCH the iron to the vinyl. Gently start heating the vinyl from the back side and if it is stiff heat it up and work it open, while heating and working the vinyl flap back into shape let it cool slightly between each reshaping, this will help each little bit of reshaping you do by letting the vinyl reset, this may take awhile depending on how long the flap has been out of shape. You may never get it perfect again, but you will see an improvement.

    Now take your elastic, fold it in half DO NOT CUT IT, and staple the 2 lose ends to the backer board just as the original was about 1 ½â€ from the edge with your ¼â€ staples. Next take a piece of 18 - 20ga. 12” to 16” long wire and run it through the loop in your elastic, then twist your wire so it won’t come out of the elastic when you pull on it, try not to crush your elastic, leave a loop in the wire where it contacts the elastic.

    Then from the stapled end start threading the elastic through the pocket flap it will be a little tight at the sewn end but you should be able to pull it through, if not gently cut a few threads to allow it through, but only if necessary. You will have to stretch and work the elastic through the pocket. Now when you reach the snap check to see if you have more room above or below the snap to thread the elastic through. Check your wire and make sure your loop is still tight. Now work the elastic through the path of your choice. Continue on to the end.

    Now attach the other end of the elastic to the backer board the same as the other end. Work and adjust the elastic to achieve the same tension throughout the pocket. Now re-staple the vinyl pocket to the backer board and reassemble the pocket to the door panel, be sure you reinstall the large washers in the corners.

    I have decided since the drivers pocket turned out so well I am going to do the passenger side. This time I will take pictures.
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