If you have eliminated any possibility that the fluid might be coming from someplace else and you are sure it's from the weep hole go ahead and replace the pump. It's not that hard a job and will give you a chance to do a through detail on all the brackets, accessories ect that you can't normal get to when they are mounted.
It's a good chance to take the radiator down to a shop and have it rodded out and rebuilt at the same time. And as long as you have to take them off any way I'd replace the hoses and belt too. And as long as your hands are dirty, do the tstat.
Definitely the waterpump, just really strange not a single drop of antifreeze throughout the WARM months, as soon as the temps drop below freezing then pump weeps. Car is kept inside of NON-HEATED garage. I know (METALS) & (GASKETS) can do some wacky things when they gets cold, anyways I guess a new waterpump is in the future.
I bought a 1992 F150 XLT for my step-dad about 6 months before he passed away. The former owner replaced the water pump on this 5.0 pick-up and I got the truck with a similar problem, but it is a timing cover to front of block gasket failure. I am too lazy to fix it, but now it only drips a lot when it is driven. I am not sure how many miles your TW has on it but just loosening the water pump to replace it can cause the timing-cover to engine gasket to do the same thing so be careful. I have heard about it happening but this is my first experience with it. I backed the component brackets off of the water pump a bit and tightened the bolts all the way around. It slowed the leak a lot, but not completely. Just tightening the bolts A BIT may stop the problem on your car. Just don't over-tighten the bolts and strip the threads in the pump-to-timing cover bolt holes.
66000 miles, It looks to be the original pump and yes after DETAILING the front of the engine you can see the leakage between the mating surface of the pump and timing cover on the Bottom side of. I have already bought NEW Motorcraft waterpump, going to set up an appointment with Dealership, as soon as the weather breaks and let them install it. THANKS for the advice.
Since they are in there why not have them replace the timing chain and gears too. I know your car has relatively low mileage but when I buy a car, and have to replace the water pump, I do the cover gaskets and the chain and gears too. I do this so I don't have to worry about those other parts for the lifetime I will own the vehicle.
Wow! I remember a trip to Courtesy Ford in South Dade County (Miami) back around 1981 or so. I paid $80.00 to have Ford replace a differential gasket on my 1973 Gran Torino Sport Coupe. I watched the mechanic work on the car and it took him all of 15 to 20 minutes to do the work. That day I decided to learn how to work on cars myself. I thought for that kind of money I could screw it up 3 or 4 times and not have more than 1/4 the money in the parts in the job and if i did make a boo-boo I would learn in the process for the next repair of the same kind.
I can't rebuild engines or transmissions or rear-ends (or haven't tried yet) but pretty much everything else I do myself.
I might buy cars for parts I am looking for, but I can't justify spending that much to do that work. It is about 1/2 day job or so for me.
I have a rule of thumb when it comes to doing my self of outsourcing. If it requires a special tool or strict torque specs, I leave it a pro. Otherwise I do it myself.
I hadn't even thought about this, but mechanics these days love that RVT silicone gasket sealer and love to smear it all over gaskets and let is ooze all over as they torque parts back onto vehicles. That red RVT stands out real good when it is used. Black may stay less noticable. If you are paying for this to be done ask the service manager and/or the service technician to mind that type of (careless) work when they work on your car. I like Permatex myself.
(1) Timing cover gasket and (4) waterpumps later problem fixed. Yes (4) WATERPUMPS. ASE certified installed (3)- NEW pw291 MOTORCRAFT waterpumps, all in which leaked, between pump propeller (gasket) and the backing plate. Backing plate to thin, allowing to much GIVE when bolting up pump in return anitifreeze everywhere. Put a Gates on from Napa MUUUCH thicker backing plate and much better gaskets, DRY as a bone.
Only way to do it though! Use BRAND NEW NOS/OE Ford water pump: http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/ite ... Water-Pump
Otherwise you will be sorry! ....Trust me! I have about 13 Fox bodied cars in my possesion right now, and will only use the new Ford part. I went through several jobber remans on my '88 GT T-top. Went snap show, and my local Ford Dealer parts girl, who used to be our Mustang club president hooked me up with the new part first time after I told her of all my hassles. Never looked back, best thing I ever did. Done SEVERAL and just recently used the LRS one and their timing chain cover/gasket set on my '92 Vibrant red convertible and replaced timing chain set as well w. new thermostat. After all that I found out it needs a rad, but have good results with the Ford parts.
I was told at the FORD DEALERSHIP were (ALL)- 3 - Brand New Motorcraft pump's were purchased @, for $122.23 that there could be a (Bad Run) of backing plates. I really wanted in a bad way to stay Motorcraft, but after 3 in a role, couldn't risk #4
I have never had a problem w/ Ford OE ones. From the dealership they cost me around that in Canadian funds up here, eh. I beleive the Ford Racing ones do not have "Ford Racing" on them and are new OE units boxed as FRPP units. I could be wrong, so don't hold me to it. I will check my garage and see if I have a spare one as I think I bought a few extra's. If not I will take a look on the one installed on my '92 Vibrant red convertible. The problem that I have had with the REMAN units is the backing plates being defective and leaking/not sealing and PUKING coolant! At first I thought it was our mistake, as my buddy and I were doing this and it was my first time, however he had done a few. As soon as we got the Ford one, we had a good backing plate and seal was all good and we were able to get the car up and running. I have talked to several people who had similar results, I have directed them to Ford units and they have never looked back. Personally, I would go the FRPP on at LRS as they are new and a good price. If there is an issue with originality/concourse, then I would definitely take a risk on the OE one from the dealership, like I said, I never had any issues, but this has been correct with every other brand or reman I have tried. Good luck on this.
Well I have used reman water pumps for ages. I like going to Napa and getting their "top of the line" parts, as they sell TWO grades of parts to keep up with the cheap parts AutoZone and Advance sell. So far all have lasted a good long time and the last one I bought actually had the Mustang casting number in the pump body and not some truck or van casting number. Permatex, not RVT, is the sealer of choice for me on most gaskets, including BOTH sides of the water pump back cover plate gasket. I bought a brand new water pump one time and when it leaked I returned it and got the reman because I knew the reman had been on a car in the past.
Remember, if Ford is having the Chinese make parts for them these brand new pumps may be sorry parts from China.
It is good Ford fixed the car even though it took the number of times to get it right and they didn't try to blame the timing cover being warped or something rediculous like that.
A few years ago I needed a headlight switch for the 1989 GT convertible that I gave to my daughter. I bought Napa's top of the line part and of all things the switch was a NOS E7ZZ white paint numbered Ford part in the Balkamp box, imagine that.
When I had my classic Mustangs in the 80s the cheap pressure plates from competing parts stores in Miami always chattered on take-offs. If I installed Napa reman pressure plates they didn't chatter at all.
Oh one thing I did fail to mention, FORD- (DIDn't) fix the problem, a local repair shop- (DID). And actually the Dealership was giving me every excuse in the book for the Leak, EXCEPT admitting their pumps were defective. I did make a call to Ford Customer Service and informed them about the issue.
Comments
It's a good chance to take the radiator down to a shop and have it rodded out and rebuilt at the same time. And as long as you have to take them off any way I'd replace the hoses and belt too. And as long as your hands are dirty, do the tstat.
Have fun.
BAD
Wow! I remember a trip to Courtesy Ford in South Dade County (Miami) back around 1981 or so. I paid $80.00 to have Ford replace a differential gasket on my 1973 Gran Torino Sport Coupe. I watched the mechanic work on the car and it took him all of 15 to 20 minutes to do the work. That day I decided to learn how to work on cars myself. I thought for that kind of money I could screw it up 3 or 4 times and not have more than 1/4 the money in the parts in the job and if i did make a boo-boo I would learn in the process for the next repair of the same kind.
I can't rebuild engines or transmissions or rear-ends (or haven't tried yet) but pretty much everything else I do myself.
I might buy cars for parts I am looking for, but I can't justify spending that much to do that work. It is about 1/2 day job or so for me.
Otherwise you will be sorry! ....Trust me! I have about 13 Fox bodied cars in my possesion right now, and will only use the new Ford part. I went through several jobber remans on my '88 GT T-top. Went snap show, and my local Ford Dealer parts girl, who used to be our Mustang club president hooked me up with the new part first time after I told her of all my hassles. Never looked back, best thing I ever did. Done SEVERAL and just recently used the LRS one and their timing chain cover/gasket set on my '92 Vibrant red convertible and replaced timing chain set as well w. new thermostat. After all that I found out it needs a rad, but have good results with the Ford parts.
Remember, if Ford is having the Chinese make parts for them these brand new pumps may be sorry parts from China.
It is good Ford fixed the car even though it took the number of times to get it right and they didn't try to blame the timing cover being warped or something rediculous like that.
A few years ago I needed a headlight switch for the 1989 GT convertible that I gave to my daughter. I bought Napa's top of the line part and of all things the switch was a NOS E7ZZ white paint numbered Ford part in the Balkamp box, imagine that.
When I had my classic Mustangs in the 80s the cheap pressure plates from competing parts stores in Miami always chattered on take-offs. If I installed Napa reman pressure plates they didn't chatter at all.
Good to hear your car has been fixed.