Door map pocket vs. map pocket delete

mustang919293

I have to replace the map pockets on my car. The drivers side is severly sagging and the passenger side has been cut off at some point before my ownership. So if I decide to get new map pockets, are they any better than factory? Is the quality better? Or would I be better off just getting some map pocket delete ones? I'm leaning toward getting map pocket delete. I don't intend to ever need map pockets and I don't want the saggy pockets again. My car will never compete for any awards for originality, I just want my car to look good. New map pockets are close to $100 and the delete is $50-$60. Anyone with any experience with either one?

gokstate74

There is a write up on another mustang forum on how to repair the sagging map pockets--should be easy to find on a search.

gokstate74

Here's one. I'm sure there are more

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/5 ... t-fix.html

mustang919293

I thought about trying that with the one that I still have, but it has holes in the bottom of it where it got caught in the door for numbers of years. So that was struck off on trying to fix. And my passenger door one is completely gone. Someone decided that it was too bad to fix and cut it off around the edges. So I need new ones. But anyway, thats a very good post for others to go by to fix theirs. Thanks for the suggestion!

jburn57

I posted this back in 07. Since you have a pocket missing and holes in the other one this won't do you much good. My repair is similiar to the Mustang forum one. sorry no video. LOL. This also covers getting the pocket back into shape. After 5 years they still look great. And I can use them because of the much better elastic.

This worked well for me and did not require having to re-stitch the pocket.

Elastic used: Stretch Rite, knit non-roll elastic Part No# 6102W (¾” wide 1 yard long) One for each door, purchased at Walmart (yes Walmart) you want a non-roll elastic so it won’t roll over.
You will also need a heavy duty stapler and some ¼” reach staples.

Okay here is what I did, I doubled the elastic and increased the width used. Not like the original but you will like the results.

I won’t go through the door panel removal. After you remove the door panel and flip it over you will notice a bunch of tabs holding the pocket assembly onto the panel. I took a putty knife and bent all the tabs up slightly (used the putty knife to keep from putting to much pressure on one spot and cracking the backer board). Then with the needle nose pliers I finished bending the tabs straight up.

In each upper corner you will notice that the tabs there have a large washer that locks onto the tab. Gently remove these by working them off of the tabs, be careful as you will need to reuse these. Now the pocket assembly should come right off.

Next starting with the staples at the top of the pocket start removing them. DO NOT REMOVE the staples at the bottom of the pocket. Just the staples along the 2 ends and the few at the lower corners. This will save you from trying to reline the pocket later. Next remove the staples from the elastic.

Next, pull on the ends of the elastic and cut off as much as you can. The elastic is sewn in at the corners, repeat this at both ends. Next, at the first opening at each end pull and cut the elastic again from the end that is sewn in. Now you will find that the snap in the middle was installed through the elastic, pull and cut it from both sides of the snap. At this point you should have all the elastic removed that is not fastened in.

Now open the pocket like a clam shell. BE GENTAL, if it is stiff don’t force it. Next get your clothing steamer or a steam iron, warm it up as hot as it will go. Hold the steamer or iron above the back side of the pocket flap, be very careful, DO NOT TOUCH the iron to the vinyl. Gently start heating the vinyl from the back side and if it is stiff heat it up and work it open, while heating and working the vinyl flap back into shape let it cool slightly between each reshaping, this will help each little bit of reshaping you do by letting the vinyl reset, this may take awhile depending on how long the flap has been out of shape. You may never get it perfect again, but you will see an improvement.

Now take your elastic, fold it in half DO NOT CUT IT, and staple the 2 lose ends to the backer board just as the original was about 1 ½” from the edge with your ¼” staples. Next take a piece of 18 - 20ga. 12” to 16” long wire and run it through the loop in your elastic, then twist your wire so it won’t come out of the elastic when you pull on it, try not to crush your elastic, leave a loop in the wire where it contacts the elastic.

Then from the stapled end start threading the elastic through the pocket flap it will be a little tight at the sewn end but you should be able to pull it through, if not gently cut a few threads to allow it through, but only if necessary. You will have to stretch and work the elastic through the pocket. Now when you reach the snap check to see if you have more room above or below the snap to thread the elastic through. Check your wire and make sure your loop is still tight. Now work the elastic through the path of your choice. Continue on to the end.

Now attach the other end of the elastic to the backer board the same as the other end. Work and adjust the elastic to achieve the same tension throughout the pocket. Now re-staple the vinyl pocket to the backer board and reassemble the pocket to the door panel, be sure you reinstall the large washers in the corners.

jburn57

You mentioned Map pocket delete kit, found this on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/87-93-90-93-Mus ... 6787600572